If you ever look at a map of Mexico’s Pacific coast, pause your finger at Puerto Escondido. This is the only site where salty stories are all over the place. People say that surfing here is not for the weak of heart, and they are right. When the waves are rising, the beach vibrates under your feet. For good reason, locals call it the “Mexican Pipeline,” and huge names have tried these waters and occasionally lost. If you want to see it for yourself, go to http://www.latamsurfing.com/mexico/puerto-escondido.
The palms are filled with whispers from the Zapotec and Mixtec people, but new voices join every day, with boards under their arms and wax in their hands. Playa Zicatela has the most famous surf break. Waves surge like titans with something to prove, and if you blink, you can miss the best set of the year. Morning sessions start early, with surfers waking up, drinking coffee, and getting pumped up for the performance. Even experienced boarders have to blink twice when they see the waves here. People will tell you stories about how they got “spat out of a barrel” like wet noodles. Surfers either love it or hate it—there’s no between ground.
But Puerto Escondido isn’t only about strength. Carrizalillo has a turquoise entrance that is hidden behind a pile of stairs. The water is calm there, making it a good place for beginners and anyone who wants to stay afloat. At La Punta, the waves break on the left side of the beach, making it a great place for people who like to groove instead of grind.
On the beach, you’ll see a mix of people: lifeguards with sharp eyes, burrito vendors weaving between towels, and sunburned people dozing under umbrellas. The stories come out of the pores here. You might run into an old-timer with scars that look like sea urchins telling the story of the one wave that got away. Or a grom with a big smile on their face after catching their first green wall.
You can rent gear almost anywhere. There are half a dozen surf shops on the streets that sell leashes, wax, and advice that is worth more than most guidebooks. Find out when the tide is best or when the breeze is right. People who live there might tell you about a secret sandbank or glare you down. Honestly, it’s just luck.
June through August, which is known as the “high season,” brings some of the heaviest, glassiest curls. The beach is busier than a beehive on espresso during these months. Come in the winter if you want to keep your ego intact. The waves calm down and the crowds thin out, yet you still get a flavor of adventure.
The sun sets like orange marmalade over the shapes of palm trees. Every night, dreamers with sand on them gather around bonfires to tell stories and make guesses about the surf the next day. Everyone is looking for something: the perfect ride, the perfect photo, or the perfect memory. So, get your wax on, paddle out, and let Puerto Escondido show you what a real wave is like. It might make your heart skip a beat.